Pruning Neglected Fruit Trees

Question:

I have a small backyard orchard and am embarrassed to say I've neglected it for over 20 years. I have several apple, plum and nectarine trees that have never been pruned and they clearly are not doing well. Do you have any advice to a novice pruner about how to go about getting these trees back into good shape and health? When is the best time to prune? Are there any "don'ts" when it comes to pruning?

Thanks!

Larry in Soquel


Answer:

This is a great question because it is one that so many people should be asking. Often, homes are purchased with pre-existing fruit trees that previous owners had diligently tended to and then, when the property changes hands, the trees fall into slow decline. Trees, like most other parts of the landscape, need consistent maintenance.

Pruning can be intimidating for the novice or beginner because there are so many different schools of thought about what's the "right" way to do it. Look on the internet and you'll find hundreds, if not thousands, of snippets of advice, all contradicting each other.

So, with that in mind, here's my take and advice:

1) Be patient with the process. Even with trees that haven't been neglected, pruning is a process that takes several years to achieve optimal structural results. Don't make any large cuts into living wood without thinking about how it will affect the tree's growth in the years to come. It's important to visualize what you ultimately want to tree to look like and come up with a plan to slowly get it there.
2) Make sure you are using the correct tools for the job. A good quality pair of hand pruners, some loppers, a handsaw (if possible, use a saw intended for cutting trees and not a saw intended for cutting boards, such as you would find at the hardware store), and a ladder. Make sure your tools are sharp and clean. Clean cuts heal quicker and are less likely to invite insect infestation or disease. Clean your tools in between different trees to reduce the chance of spreading various diseases from one tree to another. Use a ladder, as opposed to climbing the trees' branches, because boots can easily injure the trees' bark.
3) Start by removing obviously dead and diseased wood. After that you can step back and look at the major structure of the tree. The apple and plum trees will perform better if you ultimately prune it to "central leader" form where one dominant vertical trunk exists. So, with those trees, slowly, over years if necessary, try to prune away vertical branches, whips and waterspouts that are competing for dominance. With the nectarine, ideally you could prune it to an "open center" form that is more vase-like in structure. The key with all over your pruning and what you're trying to achieve is more light hitting more of the tree and improved air circulation. Think about this as you work your way through the tree. Then, consider removing branches that rub each other, cross each other unfavorably and bend downward at a severe angle.
4) Timing. The ideal time to prune is late winter when the tree has gone completely dormant but the danger of heavy frost has passed. This is the ideal time to prune because in winter the tree has more ability to heal itself, as opposed to spending energy on leaf and fruit production. Also, since the tree is in a deciduous state, you have an clear view of the branching structure and can really plan out your decisions.
5) Be conservative and don't remove more than 20% of the trees' material. You can always do more next year and you don't want to shock a tree that's been allowed to do whatever it wants for a decade or so. Even with constant maintenance, keeping with the range of 20-30% is generally a safe amount of material to prune out.
6) Do a little research and try to understand the fruiting and growth nature of each different type of fruit tree. Many trees only fruit on 2-3 year old wood. Apples fruit from spurs, which look like deformed branches. To a person who doesn't know better, these may look like non-viable branches that need to be removed. Do not prune these spurs out unless they are obviously diseased or dead.
7) Expect your fruit production to drop a bit as the tree spends its energy growing and strengthening itself and it's new structure that you're training it to grow into.
8) Have fun! Remember, it's a process and a slow one (I cannot emphasize that enough!). There are so many nuances to pruning and many of the answers to what's "right" come just from research, asking questions and doing it.

If you have any more specifics on details, just let us know.

Rain
One of the many horticulturists at Jackson Landscape